My Introduction to the Roma Ethnic Minority

romapeople

Our swearing-in ceremony was last Friday! Oh I was so excited to finally begin my service as I have been waiting for this moment since….well, forever. And yesterday, I finally went to work at my organization for the first time as an official Peace Corps Volunteer.

And in my first two days of official service, I learned something fascinating. Of course I’m in a constant state of learning in the Peace Corps, but this came unexpected. As you may be aware/unaware, Georgia actually has many minorities living in its borders, many of which come of neighboring states. However, yesterday I learned that there is an ethnic minority called the “Roma.” And no, it is has nothing to do with Rome, but it they may possibly come from Romania or Moldova many, many YEARS ago (to the point where they can’t really trace it back). Essentially, they have been living in Georgia for many generations. However, they are not very integrated into the Georgian society.

What makes them unique is that they are extremely marginalized in society and endure many negative stereotypes. Most of them do not have any documentation, passports, or typically receive aid from the government. Many of them work for scraps, some beg, and others read palms for a living. Due to their hardships, most of the children do not attend school (or at least regularly). They are also very private and generally do not like interference from the government or other organizations.

Fortunately, my organization works with them at a somewhat regular basis to try to improve their living situation and offer assistance. I felt very honored and humbled that I was able to join in on a site visit to their community. We went to the chief’s house (or the head of the tribe if you will). He was very warm and answered all the questions that my organization had with such openness.

The whole experience was very humbling. This man lived with his entire family- and no, I don’t mean just his wife and 2 kids. I mean, with his wife and 24 grandchildren and even more great-grandchildren! In total, I believe he said that 36 people live in a TINY 2 bedroom home that doesn’t really have a kitchen or bathroom. There was a bathtub in the front yard, but I believe they just used it for storing water. They could be taking bucket baths, I’m not really sure on that part. They had an outhouse. They cooked outside on with some gas and fire. All the children slept on the floor on very thin mattresses. Then they roll up the mattresses in the morning so that it does not clutter the floor during the day. The house barely had any furniture. You could tell that the home was super nice back in the day because it had wall-paper, but the wall-paper was barely in existence today. The floorboards were becoming undone. According to American standards, this home was beyond any standard of minimum living conditions.

So I stood there asking questions. I stood there impressed by their willingness and strength. I stood there humbled by a man who had life skills that I have never had to learn. I stood their with kindness and gratefulness that this man allowed me into his home.

But most importantly, it gave me another reality check (trust me, there are so many in the Peace Corps). The privilege we don’t even know we have is astonishing. We have all heard the stories, but seeing it is different. I have never been inside a home of someone who begs for a living. I have never been inside a home of someone who collects scraps. It provides an element to their story that we miss and do not get the opportunity to know. Some of us don’t want to know. But we should. Maybe if we did we would all be kinder, more patient, and more emphatic. The world is starving for that. And that is why I love today, it gave me an opportunity to learn and understand a bit more of the struggles that I have never had to face.

*For more information, feel free to read this article: Roma People. Please note that I did not receive any benefit linking this article nor did I obtain permission from the author. I’m simply adding this for reference as the author has more knowledge than I do.

Me in Georgian Language Class

If you were curious how Peace Corps volunteers end up speaking another language in a short amount of time (at least conversationally), let me share the rewarding (but sometimes painful) process. We literally have classes 6 days a week for 11 weeks. The first 5 days is learning something new and each Saturday is dedicated to reviewing the new material. In the four hour language class everyday, I go through many emotions. And since today was the last day of language class, there is no better day to write this post. Of course, the best way to explain these emotions are through GIFs. Enjoy!

giphy
Many times, you encounter very patient Georgians as you butcher their language into unrecognizable sentences. Other times, there is visible frustration from people on how come we aren’t learning fast enough. And sometimes, this is the feeling I’m assuming Host Country Nationals feel towards me, but that is projecting my own insecurities upon myself.

4472291
And to reduce those insecurities, you can never give up! You have to show up to class everyday- rain or shine! And in Ruisi, it is rain most of the time. So it is by sheer force from God where I get dragged out of bed and walk 30 minutes uphill to only get injected with 50,000 new words a day!

5540384
Most days, we are assigned something the Peace Corps likes to call “Community Tasks.” These are lovely verbal questions we are assigned to ask our host families to practice our Georgian. When I go to class the next day and put together a perfect sentence, I feel like nothing short of awesome.

4830401
But that awesomeness is short lived. I sometimes get corrected that I use the wrong case or given a whole new meaning of what I thought I said. Life is confusing and I don’t like it.

4546961
Then my teacher asks me how I feel about the new acquired information. This is how I feel.

5343674
Still confused by my earlier interaction, we move on to learn 5 new verbs. Of course, half of them sound so much alike. And of course I’m supposed to memorize them within 30 seconds. And yes, I’m still confused.

4472303
At this point of the day, I just want to whine like baby. Why is Georgian so hard?! Why do I add “s” to everything?! Ahhhhhh.

5159195
Just as I’m about to check-out from information overload, my teacher announces it is break time! 15 minutes of internet! 15 minutes to just stare at a tree until I feel okay inside. wohoo!

giphy (1)
Around 11:00 a.m. is when I experience deep sleepiness. I think about taking a nap but I then I remember I still have two more hours. There is no caffeine in sight. Stay awake, Rawan! Stay awake!

3681616
Then we learn a cognate! Oh wait, it is false cognate! But why?! Why can’t we just have the same word for the same meaning?! Why does my life need to be any harder???

4451913
And speaking of harder, I sometimes make it harder for Georgians to know what I’m saying. For an entire week, I kept on saying “I like to eat People” instead of “I like to eat onions” because there is one letter apart! This is my face when I realize what I just said. Whoopsie! Do you still love me?!

4347216
And saying the wrong thing can make my brain explode. Because now I can’t legit can’t tell the difference or hear the difference between the words. In the onion/people case, I started debating how important it was for me to get it right. My conclusion, very important. Thus, my brain proceeded to figuratively explode in front of my face.

4484633
At 12:30 p.m. begins the most painful 30 minutes of all. Why you ask? Because at this point in the day, I’m STARVING. All I could think about is food, food, and oh, food.

3667438
1:15 p.m…….ahh, the lovely time I reach the dining table in which food is served. Oh potatoes, cucumbers, and tomatoes how I have learned to love you so much since I eat you everyday. Mmmmm….Mmmm….

PST Coming to a Close

In two weeks, the G-16s (our group/year for Georgia), will be swearing in as official volunteers. The thought of “graduating” from our Pre-Service Training (PST) feels oddly familiar. Training will be over and we will be finally allowed to let our wings soar in the “real world.” Of course, anyone who graduated from high school or college has experienced “graduation jitters.” Except, here is how it will be different for me this time around. When I “graduate,” I will be upgraded from an out-house to an indoor toilet (at work and at home). I will walk on paved roads. And I will have Wi-Fi.

I’m just kidding, this isn’t obviously the important things in life for me…if it was, I would have never signed up for the Peace Corps. Although, I can’t complain that these luxuries are very much welcomed.

The real reason it will be different is because I won’t be taking Georgian lessons every day. I won’t be surrounded by many Americans. I will have to get to know a new host family and establish norms all over again. I will also have to work in a Georgian workplace, completely unaware of the professional norms in this country.

And yet, I’m so excited. The last few days we actually went to our Permanent Sites after finding out what they were last Friday. I couldn’t be any happier. I will be working at World Vision! Who wouldn’t be excited to be working at such a world-class organization?! I will also be at one of the best cities in Georgia (my biased opinion of course). The city that we will serve in has so much history- it is actually older than the capital, Tbilisi.

Watch out world, in 14 days, you will be getting 57 full-fledged new Peace Corps Adults whether we are ready or not.

My First and Probably Last Puppy

Last week, my host nephew (7 years old) brings home the cutest puppy on the planet. It was cute, tame, even-tempered, playful, and loving. I could not imagine a more perfect puppy. Yesterday, Justin took a few pictures with me and the puppy. I couldn’t help myself but post the pictures immediately on Facebook and Instagram. I was obsessed. All I could talk about yesterday to my teacher and fellow volunteers was about the puppy.

While I was working on a project with another volunteer yesterday, I became worried about the puppy as it was raining a lot. Georgians keep their dogs outdoors and I knew that our puppy would not be indoors safe and warm. So as soon as I got home for dinner, I asked where it was. The puppy was accidentally run over by a van yesterday and its hind leg was badly injured. I was in such disbelief. They asked if I wanted to see it and I jumped at the opportunity.

They led us to the barn and the puppy was crouched over in a corner wet, cold, and dirty. It was whimpering and crying in pain. I tried holding back my tears, but I was shocked to find it in such a miserable condition. It was all alone, hungry, and clearly in misery. I felt so helpless and useless. I wished that they at least cleaned up the puppy from the rain and mud. I wish that it didn’t look in so much pain. I wish it was indoors in a safe place. The concept of having a dog as a member of your family is so foreign that I had to remind myself that there was no malicious intent.

Crying at this point, I called a friend of mine that was very familiar with dogs and is certified in first-aid. I explained to my host brother that she may help. He immediately jumped into his van and went to get her. She brought over her first aid kit and created a splint for the broken leg. But our sweet puppy wouldn’t take any medications, food, nor water. It just crouched over in puppy-fetal-position whimpering. I cannot even describe to you how horrible that sound is to the ears. It is utterly depressing. As a family, we decided that she should take the puppy home and try to save it.

At 7:00 a.m., my friend called me and said that it did not make it. Our puppy joined puppy heaven around 6:00 a.m. this morning, which we assumed was due to internal bleeding.

As much as I cried, my nephew had a tougher time. When I saw him this morning, his eyes were practically swollen shut from crying all night.

But it gets worse, the second I saw my host mother, she said that one our pigs delivered 5 piglets today and attempted to eat all of them! One our piglets did not make because the mother pig got to it too fast. I’m just grateful that the remaining four piglets are at least healthy.

Clearly, breakfast was somber this morning.

The Pig Comes Full-Circle

Normally, dinner is uneventful. Tonight was not the case.

We were told to eat on the small kitchen table accompanied by the small stools. This should have been my first hint something was going down tonight. We normally eat in the dinning-room, but tonight it was set up nicer than usual. Guests must be coming.

Sure enough, about ten minutes into eating my eggs, my host brother comes in the kitchen with the biggest jug of wine I have ever seen. This thing could have easily been 5 gallons of homemade white wine. Seconds later, Justin was whisked away to sit in the dining room as I was left with the two adult females in the kitchen.

A bunch of men arrived and the feast begun in the dining room! The men came with the bbq meat. Excited, I chowed down on one of the most delicious bbq pieces I’ve ever had. Sounds delicious, right? Well, consider this….as I was enjoying my meat, my host family proudly told me that the pig I’m eating was our very own pig. And yes, the cannibal pig I talked about a few posts ago (please read that post if you haven’t). So inside of me right now, I’m digesting a pig that digested her own piglets. I couldn’t help myself finding the situation ironically hilarious, so I tried my hardest to not crack a smile.

Minutes later, my host sister looks at me and goes, “F*** You!” I look at her and she is laughing and asking what does that phrase mean in America. After almost spitting out my tea, I told her that this is not something you tell people and it should never be repeated. Did that work? Of course not, it just created a debate on how it is perfectly okay to say this in Georgia.

As I’m having that discussion, Justin is trying his hardest not to keep up with the Georgian men and their large tolerance of alcohol. Justin was shocked that they did not stop drinking after the 10th glass. Exhausted, I retire to the bedroom alone thinking Justin will follow. Nope, he was still there. So at 11:00 p.m., I give up and attempt to rescue him to get him to bed.

As I’m grabbing Justin downstairs, one of the drunk men sees me and suddenly decided to practice English with me. He got as far as, “What is your name?” Then looks at Justin as said, “Wife Beautiful.” Then the man looks at us and makes a gesture that tonight, Justin should get me pregnant. My reaction at this point was, “of course, he would say that.” My host brother walks out his friend before the discussion could go any further.

I honestly thought taking my mid-training oral language test was today’s main event, but nope, this dinner definitely trumps it.

On Female Safety

A few weeks into my training, I was walking home from school with another female volunteer. Although she lives on another side of town, neither of us wanted to walk home alone because we did not feel safe doing so.

On a small road that was very close to the main street, we stumble upon 5 very drunk men (we were not aware that this day was a holiday). We immediately put our heads down, did not make eye contact and started walking fast arm-in-arm because the men started leering at us. Sure enough, they proceeded to shout what I can only imagine to be derogatory comments in Georgian. At that moment, I felt very grateful that I was not walking home alone. Even though we don’t fluently speak Georgian, their non-verbal behavior was clear.

Troubled by this experience, I informed my teacher. Along with the other female volunteer, we both decided that we should speak with the Peace Corps’ Safety and Security Manager as well. We informed her about the incident in detail among other safety observations of the village. To my pleasant surprise, the Safety and Security Manager left no stone unturned as she took our concern very seriously.

Two days ago, she came to my village and interviewed various host families that have female volunteers. She also interviewed past female volunteers on their perception of our village. Sitting in on two of interviews was very helpful. It helped me understand the behaviors in a Georgian culture context. I was able to connect the dots to form a different picture in my mind. It allowed me the opportunity to have a candid conversation about safety. In both interviews, the families said that they feel very safe in the village.

When I came home later, my host brother informed me that he was troubled by the news. He essentially said that next time, I should take a picture of those men and show him the offenders. He would then make it a personal mission to go and talk to them. Receiving the ample support from my family and the Peace Corps warmed my heart and made me feel much safer.

To be clear, I do want to point out that there are many times I did not feel comfortable walking alone in many American cities. I don’t believe this is a Peace Corps problem or a Georgian problem. I think anybody could feel unsafe in a foreign environment and sometimes it takes time to adapt to the new situation.

What I’ve Learned About Animals

Living in a farming village will sure teach a city girl like me a whole lot about animals!

Here are a few interesting observations I’ve noticed:

  • Cows are way more flexible than you think. All the jokes about cow-tipping has made me think cows are stiff and just stand there eating grass all day. Yesterday, I saw a cow lift up its hind-leg and sniff itself in the behind just like a dog would do. Also, they actually know their way home on their own sometimes. I saw a cow straight walk into my teacher’s drive way only to find it was the family’s cow.
  • Spiders love to stay in one place for an extended period of time. That spider in the outhouse I mentioned a while back…still in the same spot. Which brings me to the next point, their lifespan is longer than I expected. Also, I don’t think Georgians are scared of spiders like some Americans are (cough…cough, me)! I’ve lost count on how many daddy-long-legs I’ve seen that are in people’s homes.
  • Donkeys can rape one another- or at least attempt. I was walking with a bunch of friends last weekend in a different village and we suddenly heard a donkey howling. We saw that a male donkey just jumped on the female’s behind and started humping while biting her neck. The female donkey was able to escape after a few minutes. It looked like how dogs hump each other uninvited, but much more aggressively.
  • Rosters do not just crow when the sun comes up like the movies portray. Those birds go at it all the time! But especially in the morning- like 4:30 a.m.! We hear the rosters wide and clear each morning and I’m not a fan when the sun is not yet shinning.
  • Dogs are not a man’s best friend! Well, at least in Georgia. They are in fact very vicious here and I’ve grown to be afraid. As you are walking down the street, it is a legitimate fear that they will come at you and bite you. In fact, many Peace Corps Volunteers have had to fight them off. Which is why all volunteers in Georgia get Rabies shots, in fact, we just completed our third round a couple of days ago.
  • Mice can eat through walls. For some reason, I assumed they go through already-made cracks in the walls, but no, their teeth never stop growing. How do I know this? Let’s just say I have an unwanted pet in my room that goes by the shape of a mouse. Current fear, stepping on it in the middle of the night. Justin has placed rat poison and the mouse has feasted on all of it. Is it still alive? To be determined….

Early “Routines”

Consider me lucky, but I’ve had access to internet a few times a week already. With internet comes Skype/Facetime, naturally. I’ve talked to a few people back home and the popular questions thus far is how is my daily life thus far.

Here is a run-down:

  • I shower about every 4 days. Don’t say gross, because I’m probably the most showered in my group of volunteers in my village. And no, nobody smells. To be honest, we probably shower too much as Americans because I’m pleasantly surprised how clean everyone still looks and smells with the baby-wipe method. Either way, I’m happy with my shower situation here because mine is indoors and with hot water (I’m so spoiled and I love it!).
  • Washing hands with soap and running water is a LUXURY. I can’t say this enough- baby wipes are my life. There is no soap or running water in my school. In fact, my host family today asked if they could borrow some of my baby wipes and I was shocked considering I never used the baby-wipes in front of them, which gets to my next point….
  • Word gets around fast. Texting in American is snail mail compared to here. Villagers are extremely well-connected. This could be the result of all the uninvited visits people make to each other’s houses. But I can’t say for sure, because I look like an awkward American slowly sipping her tea in front of several Georgians while they talk away. Either way, I like this part of the Georgian culture. It is apparent how everyone puts an effort into their relationships.
  • Some outhouses are better than others. Here is how the point system works with this one- add a point for each of the following: 1) easy hole for aiming- feel free to add two points for this one 2) toilet paper availability 3) sink nearby 4) door to lock 5) enough sunlight peeking through, none I’ve seen have an electric light 6) tiled floor 7) few quantity of bugs/spiders. Here is a tip, do not drop the roll of toilet (or anything else valuable) in the hole. There is no coming back.
  • People actually eat raw vegetables straight up. Ever heard of anyone chowing down on a raw garlic without anything else? My host family just peeled it and just started eating it raw at the dinner table without anything else. It was strong, but I actually enjoy it with them now.
  • I wear multiple jackets- indoors! There is no central heating system and no insulation in the walls. So when it is cold outside, it is sometimes colder indoors. Let’s just say I’m nervous for the winter. Send me your good vibes now.
  • All my meals are cooked for me- I think this is a mostly positive thing. I don’t really have a say on what I’ll be eating, but this is a nice luxury to have especially since how packed our training schedule is every day.

Death of the Piglets

Immediately after I posted my last blog entry (about meeting my host family), this happened…

To set the scene, it was around 11:30 p.m. creeping around midnight. Justin urgently wanted to go to the restroom and I figured I might as well go too. He couldn’t find his headlamp/flashlight or his boots fast enough, so I told him I’ll just go ahead and see him in a few minutes.

Headlamp/flashlight and boots, you ask? Yes, because “going to the restroom” is a 5-minute adventure down the stairs, into an unpaved gravel “road” around the house, into a wooden shed, with a concrete hole in the middle that functions as our “toilet.” Our Outhouse also shares a wall with four large pigs and it is right across the chicken coup. Since it was raining on and off that day and there is no lighting, this is where the boots and headlamp/flashlight come into play. Silver lining, there is one less step because there is no flushing.

Baby wipes in one hand, flashlight in the other, I walk downstairs. I find all the adults outside in bath robes and coats looking distressed. Even though this is only my third night, I knew this was not routine. I see the women walking in and out of the pigs’ den and the men speaking loudly inside with a screaming pig. The invite me inside the pigs’ den. Turns out, the fattest big pig of them all just delivered 9 piglets! The host grandmother starts making an eating/attacking non-verbal expression. Now, I’m just horribly confused.

My host sister (the young mother of the family), knew I had a flashlight, so she takes me to the wheelbarrow located right by the outhouse by the garden. She has me point to the wheelbarrow. You know what I see? I see 3 half-eaten, half-alive piglets!!! Half their body is literally eaten- a scene right out of a horror film. I thought they would be dead, but nope, they were heaving heavily as they were taking their last breath. The mother pig delivered her piglets and then tried to EAT THEM ALL AND BURY THEM.

The host grandfather was still in the den attempting to dig out the rest of the 6 piglets underneath the mother pig’s poop as she dug them there alive half-eaten. I was just literally standing there shocked, helpless, and speechless.

Clearly the family was upset, most likely because they just lost a valuable source of income and clearly energy and time for raising the cannibal mother pig. I, on the hand, never knew pigs do that! So I walk upstairs with my eyes wide open, disturbed.

For the 20 minutes I was down there, Justin did not even come down. He was supposed to come down right after me! After I managed to tell him the story, I don’t think he was ever more grateful for holding it in and waiting. Oh, and he laughed out loud at my expense.

PST Host Family

On Saturday evening, Peace Corps Orientation was over. We were able to finally meet our PST (Pre Service Training) host family!

I found out that our “Host Mother” was actually a few years younger than me- and I’m still in my twenties! Her oldest child is 7 years old- which I’m assuming means she was about 17 years old when she got married. First culture shock- check.

We got off the bus and immediately hugged with such kindness. When we got home, she pulled out a bag of rings and immediately started placing them on my ring finger. Now, I discovered that married women in Georgia actually place their wedding rings on their RIGHT hand, not the left. So, at first, I thought she assumed that I was making the appearance of living in sin and she wanted me to have a good image in the community. I tried pointing to Justin to say that we are in fact married and gave her 3 fingers to indicate our years of marriage (well, we hit 3 years in July). She kept on shaking her head- in which I realized that she thought I was asking for a ring for Justin! First miscommunication check.

As I’m sitting there confused for hours on what that ring signified, Justin was dealing with his first cultural immersion. As we were eating dinner, Justin was offered shots after shots. Georgian alcohol is quite impressive in the sense that it is extremely strong! As the men began showing signs of drunkenness, the mission became apparent. Get Justin drunk to impregnate Rawan in the fertile Georgian air. Even with zero understanding of Georgian, this was very clear.

This is where my pocket dictionary became my lifeline. By the way, trying to use broken Georgian from a dictionary is not an easy way to converse that a baby will not be happening any time soon. But, the silver lining from my pocket dictionary is that we accidentally found the word for “present.” the ring my host mom gave me was simply just a gift and nothing more.