Thanksgiving 2018: Let’s just go to Plan F

For this Thanksgiving edition, I’ve asked my friend and fellow PCV Phil to write a guest blog post. Enjoy his post and my pictures to accompany his writing 🙂 – Rawan

Let me tell you about PC Georgia G16 Extension to the Next Dimension Friendsgiving 2018 Rach’ Out with your Crotch Out, our snowy northbound excursion! Do you want to hear about our marshutka struggling up a craggy mountainside? Battening down the hatches against the frosty weather with a village host as we share the latest news, cooking local fowl and transplanting our American holiday customs into the far-flung and hoary Caucuses?

Couldn’t find a place to do it.

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All the G16 Extended (3rd Year) Peace Corps Volunteers, from left to right: Ainsley, Justin, Phil, Susan, and Rawan

Winter excursion season usually starts December 8th when the skiing opens, but we can’t help it. Our schedule is what it is. We tried booking three different places through Airbnb in Oni, Nikortsminda, and, forgoing Racha altogether, Bakuriani to the south. In all three instances we learned a day after booking that the host either wasn’t checking their email, had booked another guest without taking down their posting, or hadn’t gotten their pad functional yet, sincerest-apologies-come back-next-week.

Booking.com found us an apartment in the center of Bakuriani, and then the evening before we were due there our man called to say that there was no water at his digs. “That gonna be a problem?”

Like Jonah in the belly of the whale, we can take a hint. So, we stayed put in Rawan and Justin’s home and cooked a Thanksgiving spread so lavish it shames us. Orange chicken; mashed potatoes; pumpkin gnocchi; butternut squash soup; stuffing; glazed carrots; gravy; and brownies.

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Croutons, Butternut Squash Soup, Mashed Potatoes, Justin’s Orange Chicken, Gravy, Glazed Carrots, Pumpkin Gnocchi, two sets of Brownies, Stuffing, Apple Crumble, and Rice!

Thanksgiving is a good time to put aside this jocular self-pity and acknowledge that we as Americans and Peace Corps Volunteers have oodles to be thankful for. I’m sure if our stateside countrymen knew what a blast the Peace Corps is, they’d run – not walk – to sign up, leaving their front doors open and the kettle still on.

Every day we get to partner with those Georgians who are doing the essential work of developing their country and its institutions. All the while we upload into our consciousness several lifetimes’ worth of lessons, inspiration and formative experience that we shall not fully grasp and appreciate until years down the road.

Georgia is a fascinating country with rare natural beauty and extremely likable people. We are fortunate to work and live in such a place, and that we have this time to explore it together.

For explore we did, albeit in shorter range than intended. After sleeping off the chow, Saturday we ventured a short way uphill to see the historical double-act of Motsameta and Gelati Monasteries.

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Crashing a wedding (or five) at Motsameta!

Motsameta sits atop a cliff jutting out over a gorge, dropping on three sides, with a fine view of the Tskaltsitela River below. The church contains a shrine to the bones of two 8th century Georgian martyrs, the brothers Davit and Konstantin Mkheidze, local dukes who were tortured and executed by Muslim invaders for refusing to convert. There were several weddings in progress when we visited, and while we waited to enter the chapel where the ceremonies were underway and the holy relics housed, we played with the monks’ well, into which visitors had thrown coins despite an injunction not to do so.

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Gelati

Gelati was less crowded and under construction. It was founded in 1106 by David IV, known by the epithet Aghmashenebeli – “The Builder”. He is a heroic figure in Georgian medieval history, under whose reign Georgia came to dominate the Caucasus. He is buried at this site under a gate stripped as a prize from the city of Ganja in Azerbaijan by David’s son Demetrius.

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Courtyard of Gelati

We capped off the evening at the old PCV-standby Praha, to show our eastern companion some damn fine bean-bread. It is a testament to the excellence and quality-depth of our post that even when Plans A-through-D disintegrate, E, F, G, and H satisfy. Count your blessings and Happy Thanksgiving!

Some of my Favorite Georgian Food

In my two and a half years here, I have noticed that not once did I do a blog about Georgian cuisine. Here I present some of my Georgian foods. Yum Yum.

Georgian food is different from Russian and Turkish, two of its neighbors. When I went to Russia for the FIFA World Cup, I realized how popular Georgian cuisine is in the region.

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A Supra

It would almost be criminal if I write a blog post about food without discussing a Supra. What is interesting is that Supra technically means tablecloth. However, now, it really symbolizes a “Georgian feast.” For any special occasion, Georgians will put together a Supra, whether it is for Easter, for Christmas, Birthdays, or anything. Above, you will find a picture of one of my first supras with my coworkers at a “supra-ish” restaurant. There is chicken liver, mushrooms, chicken, wine (the jug on the left), bread, and much more. Below, I will talk about some of the foods that you will see at a Supra or just in daily life.

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Tomato and Cucumber Salad with Walnuts

One of my favorites is definitely the tomato and cucumber salad with walnut “sauce.” I put the sauce in quotation marks because it is not really a dressing, a sauce, or a paste. Georgians mix walnuts with a bit of vinegar, salt, and I’m assuming water. It comes to this thick mixture and it is blended with tomatoes, cucumbers, white onions, and parsley. In contrast, I am so fatigued by its plain cousin- the tomato and cucumber salad. At home, a salad is honestly just cucumbers and tomatoes. Half the time, it is not even cut up in pieces and there is so such thing as a dressing. The most that the “salad” gets dressed with is a pinch of salt. Thus, the salad pictured above is not only welcoming but also delicious. I will miss this salad for sure. You can also find this salad frequently at Supras.

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Khikali

This is arguably one of the proudest dishes that Georgians serve. Khinkali is the Georgian dumpling. Typically, it is served with minced meat, parsley, and onions rolled up into a soft, thin dough and then boiled to serve. Other popular options include cheese khinkali, mushroom khinkali, or potato khinkali. My favorite is probably just the meat and the second is probably the potato. It actually took me a while to like this dish, but now I even crave it. There is a very unique and proper way to eat this dish, here is a video of a Georgian woman explaining it. Watch it here.

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Mexican Potatoes

Although this is not technically Georgian, you will find it on the common Georgian supra table. This dish is called, “Mexican Potatoes,” which is ironic because it is not Mexican. Regardless, it is one of my favorites. Georgians cut the potatoes in wedges and season it with paprika and other spices. It is served with a mayonnaise-based dip with paprika, as shown on the left of the plate in the picture above. Georgians do eat a lot of fried potatoes though.

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Mtsvadi

Mtsvadi is probably one of the manliest dishes in Georgia. Just as the average man in the United States loves to barbeque, so does the Georgian man. Mtsvadi is the Georgian word for basically barbeque. Typically, it is is pork, but sometimes you have it chicken (the second most popular) and then beef. Featured above is beef (top) and then pork (bottom). The featured picture of this blog is the chicken Mtsvadi.

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Georgian Cake

Georgian cakes are amazing. There is not a single prepackaged mix in Georgia (that I know of). Cakes here are made from scratch. They are moist and fluffy. A lot of cakes have fruit fillings as well. On birthdays, they will put these firework type of candles on the cake as well. It makes it extra festive. I never liked birthday cakes in America, I found them to be too sweet, especially if it is bought at a grocery store. Meanwhile, I look forward to eating cake in Georgia.

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bleeneys or Blini

Technically, these are not Georgian, they are Russian. Above is pictured the Russian pancake, called Blinis or Bleeneys (same word, but not sure how to spell it with Latin letters). Instead of maple syrup, I eat this with apple or peach jam. They are thicker than American pancakes and they are also smaller in size. They are also not necessarily served for breakfast. I’ve eaten these for dinner or lunch. Thus, ironically, it took me a while to figure out these were pancakes when I first came to Georgia since I ate them at all hours of the day and night. Do note that you will not find these blinis at a supra.

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White Wine

Time to talk about drinks! I have come to love Georgian wine. I find that bottled Georgian wine has more flavor and it is stronger. House wine is inconsistent so I won’t talk about that in this post. Ironically, white wine is not necessarily chilled. In the above picture, you can tell from the glass that this white wine was served cold. However, most white wines are not. In fact, sometimes, I have even had cold red wine. Rules and guidelines about wine are very different than our typical western European or American standards.

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My friend Sarah trying Tarragon flavored soda

Since I’m talking about food, I have to mention the obsession of tarragon soda. Now, I do not have the obsession of this flavor, but Georgians do. When my friend Sarah visited me, I made her try it because it is a staple on Georgian supras. If you are curious, it does in fact taste exactly like tarragon, it is uncanny.

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Lemon flavored soda. I took this picture in Kazbegi in the summer of 2018.

However, I will miss Georgian soda, particularly the lemon flavor. I am not a fan of American sodas, I find them to be too sweet. Georgian sodas are as well; however, their flavors tend to be more realistic to the real thing. Lemon soda actually tastes like it has lemon in it. If you have never had 7-Up or Sprite, you will have no idea it was trying to mimic lemon-lime. Another favorite flavor of mine is pear soda. Georgians have unique soda flavors that are not typically found in American stores. Secondly, they are not called sodas in Georgia. They are called “Lemonadi.” Yes, like “lemonade” but with a “y” sound at the end.

That is it for now. There are Georgian restaurants in America, most are found in New York or D.C. If you see one, check it out and see if they have any of the above on the menu!